This introduction to waves gives an overview of the concepts and activities explored in this unit and describes how these investigations build an understanding of ocean literacy.
Waves
Waves are amazing and dynamic—they transfer energy, provide recreation, cause destruction, and change with the seasons.
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There are many different types of waves, each with unique properties. Water waves are generally caused by winds, and they can transfer energy over long distances across ocean basins.
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Most waves are generated by wind. Many factors influence the formation of waves. Wave conditions in offshore open water are called sea states.
Activities: -
Wave energy sets water particles into orbital motion. When waves move into shallow water, contact with the bottom disturbs the orbital motion, causing waves to rise up and break.