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Fig. 4.1. A surfer emerging from a plunging, barreling wave
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Image courtesy of Mike Coots
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Introduction to Waves
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Waves are one of the most striking features of the ocean. They can be calming and beautiful or terrifying and relentless. Waves are a source of inspiration for artists, surfers, and scientists. Waves can also be violent and destructive, sinking large ships during storms. Regardless of how they are viewed, waves are agents of change.
Ocean Literacy Principles
Principle 1: The earth has one big ocean with many features.
Ocean Literacy Fundamental Concept: Throughout the ocean there is one interconnected circulation system powered by wind, tides, the force of the earth’s rotation (Coriolis effect), the sun, and water density differences. The shape of ocean basins and adjacent landmasses influence the path of circulation. (OLP 1c)
To build an understanding of water circulation throughout the ocean, it is important to understand how wind generates waves and how waves transfer energy over long distances with very little horizontal movement of water.
These concepts will be explored in this unit through the following activities and investigations:
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