Waves
Waves are amazing and dynamic—they transfer energy, provide recreation, cause destruction, and change with the seasons.
-
This introduction to waves gives an overview of the concepts and activities explored in this unit and describes how these investigations build an understanding of ocean literacy.
-
There are many different types of waves, each with unique properties. Water waves are generally caused by winds, and they can transfer energy over long distances across ocean basins.
-
Most waves are generated by wind. Many factors influence the formation of waves. Wave conditions in offshore open water are called sea states.
Activities: -
Wave energy sets water particles into orbital motion. When waves move into shallow water, contact with the bottom disturbs the orbital motion, causing waves to rise up and break.